Mazda B2600 with OM617A

Mazda B2600 with OM617A, 1987 "Mazcedes"

The Chevy pickup had done yeoman service for quite some time, but it was getting very tired and nasty on the inside, ever since the leaky windshield replacement debacle, and the engine had started oil-fouling plugs badly. I could never get it started when I wanted, which resulted in me using it less and less. Which made for bad gas and the starting/running problems worse... a vicious cycle.

All of this could be dealt with but... I was sick of it.

I had been toying for a few years with the idea of finding a 1996–1998 12-valve Dodge Cummins, with regular cab, long bed, 4×4 and a stick shift, but those aren't all that common and go for stupid prices, even with 400kmi on the clock. (All-mechanical engine, bulletproof inline Bosch P7100 injection pump. Just like my truck, and basically the Dodge diesel equivalent of the Chevy, which was otherwise perfect for the uses to which it was put.) Not much joy on that front.

At dinner one day a neighbor showed me this Craigslist listing for a diesel Mazda truck. (He wanted it, but his wife put the kibosh on that.) I basically yawned, stating that I didn't really want to get into an orphan diesel model, of a truck and engine I knew nothing about. He then pointed out that this was a Mercedes diesel engine, one I was very familiar with, and that the truck was a 4×4 with a manual transmission. A 'Mazcedes'?

All of a sudden this thing got very interesting, as a potential replacement for the Chevy. Diesel engines can sit for years and start right up, which is perfect for a woods truck. The smaller truck won't hold/carry as much, but for on-property use you just make a few more short trips, and the smaller body might be more maneuverable in the woods. I thought about it, but procrastinated a bit too long and when I finally went to call on it the listing was gone. Oh well.

Later, though, I found a browser window left open to the listing on my desktop computer, and the phone number was still there. I called. Yes, it was still available, and I had some excess funds left over from the totalling of the Dodge diesel, so I made arrangements to go see it.

Ad text:

1987 Mazda B2600 LX Extra Cab 4x4 with a 3.0L 5 cylinder (OM617) 1983 Mercedes 300SD turbo diesel engine coupled with the Mazda 5 speed manual tranny. Great fuel economy between 25–30 mpg. Here's a few things done on it in the past 15k miles that I've owned it:

Just had engine oil change done. Has aftermarket towing brake controller, turbo boost gauge, battery volt gauge, custom headlights, fog lights, CD player, battery and starter replaced recently. Has 265/75/16 tires on it.

Body has close to 200k miles, engine has close to 180k miles, 19k miles driven after the engine install. Has some dings and dents, small rock chip in windshield, truck bed handle broken. Family growing, so we just bought a bigger truck. Call, text, or message for more info. $2699 obo

Sale pictures: Other pictures:

Friday, May 25, 2018

The truck looked good, and drove fine. Only notable thing is that the fan and radiator are on the front side of the grille, behind the brush guard and covered with expanded steel. The engine sits more forward than it needs to, but probably not enough to fit behind the grille even if it was brushing the firewall. PO claims 25–29 MPG. All gears worked, it started easily. High/low range works, though it's impossible to really tell if 4×4 is working without some more interesting terrain. Truck is far from perfect, and could use a bit of TLC. The dash instrumentation is crude homebrew, the original cluster is gone. The engine idles rough, really shakes things up, but once at speed seems pretty smooth. We negotiated a bit, and settled on $2,500 with the sale to be consummated the next day. (Banks were closed by that time.)

Saturday, May 26, 2018

I bought the truck. The drive home was uneventful, it seems to drive pretty well down the highway but the overall experience is crude, Unimog-ish. At idle it's very noisy and vibratory. At freeway speeds it smooths right out. Boost gauge goes up to about 14 PSI before the overboost cutout drops it back to 10 PSI. Has very little low-end torque, feels like the 190D rather than the 200D, which has a very truck-like feel. You need to keep the RPM up on this to keep power on. It'll be fine, regardless, but I prefer a more truck-like feel in a truck.

The radiator and oil cooler protection are fine for normal use, but in the woods I think I'll need a little bit more. Will have to give this some thought.

PO says that the truck had an OM617 in the bed when he got it, leftovers from the turbo conversion by the PPO, and which he had sold. He had once left the hood unsecured, and it blew up and mashed the cowl area and damaged the hinges, but did not break the glass. Still looks good enough to me, for a woods truck.

Later that day Daniel and I drove to town in it to get some more brake cleaner for the delivery valve job and some dinner, and I filled it up. The aftermarket fuel gauge is flakey, and is not to be trusted. The oil pressure gauge is not hooked up.

Monday, May 28, 2018

I looked over the truck. The 16" wheels are Toyota wheels, they've got center logo caps. The protruding hub lockers on the front prevent the caps from being used there.

Thumb starter switch, a toggle for glow/kill. Key does nothing but power the gauges, etc. I like its crude elegance, but wish the original instrument cluster could have been preserved.

The glow plugs are hooked up with a Ford starter relay, the 12ga wiring somewhat inadequate, since it's a single wire to one plug and chained to the others. The glow plugs all seem to be working, and I put the battery on charge, it was thirsty. Motor mounts standard Benz, screwed to perches welded forwards of the originals. Left side mount oily and collapsed.

There is a strange blowby oil recovery system. There are a couple of metal bottles, like pill bottles in size. First bottle drains to oil return and also feeds second bottle, second bottle is open to atmosphere, rather than being fed back into the air cleaner like stock.

Truck should have 215/75/R15 tires, which are 4" shorter than what is on it. (265/75/R16, 31.6" in height.)

Son dislikes the name "Mazcedes", prefers "Otto von Hirohito." I am unconvinced. "M&M" has also been suggested.

I used some heat-shrink tubing to slip over the hood retention pegs, maybe that will tame the horrible squeaking that comes from there sometimes.

Tuesday, May 29, 2018

I removed the broken tailgate release handle, which is accessed behind the screw-on panel that covers the inside of the tailgate. Very straightforward. I wonder how easy it is to find another one? Looks like they're around $25–30 online.

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

The U-pull didn't have any intact tailgate pulls, but they did have two broken ones, but which were all there, unlike mine. I bought one, I think I can repair the broken pot-metal using a steel splint and some JB-Weld. $9 and I don't have to wait. The same truck had a hard bed-liner, I grabbed the tailgate section for another $6. (The bed section is too long, my truck has a short bed. Hmm, I wonder if I could cut it off to fit? Probably not, the wheel wells are in the wrong place.)

The donor truck in the yard had an intact muffler, with hangers and mounts, which I bought. Should be fairly easy to mount, it's all formed to fit this model of truck. I just need to cut the pipes off appropriately and weld them together. That will be much safer in the woods, ensuring that no sparks can possibly come out of it.

Saturday, June 2, 2018

I drilled two holes in the pot metal of the tailgate handle, and formed a piece of large box staple to pin across the break. Then I potted the entire area in JB-Weld and wrapped electrical tape around it to keep it from slumping away while it cures.

Monday, June 4, 2018

Two days is plenty of time to cure, I installed the tailgate handle. I tried it a few times, it hasn't broken yet, so that's good. I couldn't quite get all the longer bolts for the bed-liner tailgate cover to start, but there are enough there to hold it on. It'll do.

Saturday, June 9, 2018

I tried out the 4wd today, I took the little truck into the woods. After remembering to lock the hubs it was able to get around. I definitely need to beef up the protection on the front, I had to pick a lot of trash out of the lower part of the radiator. The truck doesn't have any better turning radius than the Chevy, in fact it seems worse, and the lack of low-end torque makes it less fun to drive around. Also, it's geared a little higher, so you can't creep along as slowly. All non-ideal in a woods truck, but probably livable.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

I hung the exhaust today. First I welded up the soot-encrusted cracks in the used muffler where it was starting to fail, they looked like fatigue cracks more than erosion. Then I hung it in place using the rubber hangers, all three of them lined up nicely with the hooks on the truck. I only had to cut off about 9" from the front side of the muffler pipe in order to mate with the pipe on the truck, then I cut a 1" collar of scrap exhaust pipe to make a slip collar to hold them together. Welding that on was the difficult part, it's hard to weld on the top and the bottom. I had to start the vehicle numerous times in order to find the leaks, and get them (mostly) plugged.

I found that up front there was a missing bracket between a collar on the pipe and the rear transmission mount, so the exhaust pipe rubbed against a cross-member. Noisy! A section of shackle bolt from the scrap pile, along with a spacer made from a flex disc bushing and a scrap nut completed the ensemble. It actually looks nearly professional! At the back the new tailpipe contacted some over-long mudflap screws, but a short session with the grinder fixed that. A little over 2 hours for all of this.

It runs a lot quieter now! And, more importantly, will be safer in the woods.

Daniel and I then used the truck to do a lot of reversing practice in the driveway, preparing for his driving test. This little truck was nice for that because we could put it in 2L (4L with the hubs unlocked) in order to have a gentler introduction to maneuvering in reverse. (Eventually we switched to the 190D, which is what he'll be driving most of the time.)

As it rained intermittently during this and we were using the heater to dispel fog, it is clear now that the heater vent control is entirely disconnected from anything; I was unable to get anything out of the defroster vents. I guess I'll have to go in.

Monday, November 19, 2018

I thought I'd take this out to get gasoline for the wood splitter, but when I went to start it the battery was at 8V. Not good! I put the charger on, and it was very thirsty; there must be a parasitic drain somewhere in the system, it charged for hours. I put the battery cutoff knife switch from the Chevy on it, which did not fit very well.

Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Very cold this morning, I tried to start it. Much cranking, but no go, just a couple of coughs. After the attempt I checked the battery area, and the 'new' battery disconnect switch was very hot. Going to have to do something else, I guess, on a diesel we can't afford to lose any starting energy to heating the wiring.

Back on charge.

Sunday, March 3, 2019

Things have been happening, and it's time to make a record. This truck was intended to replace the Chevy (which was sold today), but I don't think it's going to be as successful as I'd hoped, in spite of it being tres cool. Reasons:
  1. It's awfully lightweight, could it survive the abuse?
  2. It's small, and won't carry as much wood.
  3. The gearing is a bit high and the turning radius is fairly dreadful, maneuverability in the woods is suspect.
  4. The oil cooler and radiator are currently far too vulnerable for offroad use, and would need additional protection.
  5. It needs a bigger/better battery arrangement.
More importantly though, with Dad's passing last September his old 1990 Ford F250 diesel truck, in the exact configuration of the Chevy, is now in play. Brother Gene wants a utility truck for householder use, but the Ford is kind of large, and he's already getting Dad's Camry. So, we're going to swap. I'll take the Ford, which should be perfect in the woods, or at least as good as the Chevy was, and he will 'buy' the Mazcedes out of his share of the estate, for what I paid for it, provided I fix the heater first. It should fit his needs just about as well as the Ford would, and will take up a lot less space in his driveway. Both trucks are diesels, and so should be pretty good for intermittent use, so long as the fuel is treated appropriately and the batteries are on tenders. And, this way each of the kids gets one of Dad's vehicles, which seems right and proper, and the cool little Mazcedes stays in the family. The Ford is actually in pretty good condition, I'll have to treat it a lot nicer than I did the Chevy. Maybe put on a brush guard, and definitely avoid side-hill stumps and inappropriate pulling.

(Depending on how well the Ford works out, and Jill's wishes, we could even end up selling the V10 too. The Ford's cab is a lot smaller and it's a stick shift, which while ideal for the woods could be less desirable for Jill, so this is not a given; we'll see.)

Sunday, March 17, 2019

If I'm going to trade this truck away this Spring, I'm going to have to get on with it. Today I dug the truck out of the snow, so that what's left will melt sooner in the warmer weather we've been having, allowing me to sooner get it out of its hole. I repaired the wires of one of the Harbor Freight solar battery tenders, and put it on the truck. It puts out maybe 75–100mA in full sunlight, which will help. This should end up being a semi-permanent addition, if the truck ends up getting used as I expect.

Recalling my last attempt to start it, and the overheating of the knife switch disconnect at that time, I replaced the disconnect with one of the cheap screw-knob disconnects I picked up recently. They're not rated for much current, 135A continuous IIRC, but mostly I believe that's because they've got a plastic insulator that's intended to allow for a quick on/off via only a few turns of the knob, routing all the current through the bolt that has the plastic knob on it. I've removed the insulator altogether, allowing for much more direct metal-to-metal contact area between the two body pieces of the disconnect. (In compensation, though, to disconnect you now have to completely remove the knob and move the terminal out of the way.) I had to re-route the negative wires of the truck to around the front of the battery, because the terminal now connects at 90° from its former orientation, a couple of inches towards the front of the truck. The disconnect's truck-side terminal is slightly smaller than the battery terminal, and the truck's terminal clamp didn't have any more clamping range left. I cut a 1/2" ring of copper plumbing fitting from the junk box, and slit and filed it so that it could compress. I wedged that into the truck's negative clamp, and wedged the disconnect's terminal into that. It clamped down nicely afterwards, we'll see how well it works next time I go to start it.

Assuming that all this works better, all I've got left to do is to fix the heater vent control lever.

I checked the parasitic draw on the battery, and it's what I would consider fairly high: 20mA. (Steve says that the current industry accepted limit is up to 50mA, which is ludicrous for anything that is not being driven daily.) I wonder if the brake controller might be to blame? The only other candidate is the radio.

I did have the bright idea to (soon) liberate the trunk emblem from the parts-car 240D (W123) in the woods and lash it to the expanded-metal radiator grille. A "Mazcedes" needs a tri-star emblem too! That shouldn't take long, assuming that removing the star from the trunk goes well.

Monday, March 18, 2019

I went into the woods and grabbed the W123 trunk star. One 13mm nut and it's out. Installing it in the grille was harder, because you can't reach it with a wrench very well. I used a magnetic retrieval tool to put the washer and nut into place. I was worried that vibration would cause the whole thing to work loose and fall off on the road, so I smeared a dab of Gorilla glue on the nut and exposed threads once it was in place. If it ever needs to come off again a propane torch will do a number on the glue. I think the addition to the grille looks great.

Sunday, March 24, 2019

I got the truck started, I needed jumper cables. The primer pump leaks, I think we're getting significant air incursion. Once started things smoothed out, and I got the truck moved closer to the house, and put it on charge.

I started pulling the dash apart, enough to liberate the heater control panel. The upper control's pivot had sheared off, and the control wire was kinked. (Related? Probably.) Trying to straighten the control wire broke it. I should get some junkyard parts to replace this, the wire at least. (The control panel itself can probably be glued, if necessary.)

Monday, March 25, 2019

I plugged in the block heater, and it started sizzling. Good to know that it works. Later I started the truck, it started instantly. The battery sits loose in the tray, it should really have one of those rubber bungee tie-downs. (Not the feeble elastic fabric kind, but solid rubber.)

Monday, March 25, 2019

I went to the Pull-and-Save and bought a replacement heater control panel, with control wires. $14. I also bought a new steering column cover. It's the wrong color, but it's intact. If Gene cares enough he can do something with it. (Paint and install?)

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

I routed the solar panel wiring through an existing hole in the firewall, which will be a much nicer situation than being draped through the doors. I expect this solar panel (battery tender) to be a semi-permanent installation for a rarely-used vehicle that sits outside. I installed a grommet from a used oil filter in the hole through the firewall to protect the wiring. (You cut it so that you can clip it over the wires, then push it into the hole with fingers and a screwdriver. It actually works fairly well, and is free.)

I then wired the charging connection permanently to the battery, on the battery side of the disconnect switch. That should do nicely.

I installed the replacement heater control panel, it's an exact fit. There are a number of broken plastic pieces in the area, I'm starting to glue them back together so that things will fit and work correctly. That is slow. Little dabs of Shoe Goo, the occasional washer and/or clamp...

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

More gluing.

Thursday, March 28, 2019

I put together the repaired dashboard. While I was at it, I ended up replacing four lamps, I think that was all of them that are left, since the main instrument cluster is a fabrication. I also used DeOxIt on the door switches, the courtesy lamp works well now.

There seems to be one instrument cluster bezel retaining screw that is not there, nor is the metal clip that it screws to.

Friday, March 29, 2019

I dropped by the junkyard again, the B-2200 of Monday was already gone but I was able to find a fastener similar to the missing piece, in some other random car. I also procured another dome light bulb for the rear courtesy lamp. (This is a particularly short 10W Euro-style festoon bulb that Mazda seems to favor, but which I think gets too hot due to its small size and thus tends to fail mechanically.) I also bought a rubber bungee ($1.50) to hold down the battery. I installed the bulb and the bungee when I got home, the dash fastener will need to wait.

All that's left on my list is this fastener, and repairing the broken fog/driving lamp wire.

Saturday, March 30, 2019

I re-soldered the fog/driving lamp wire. I was tempted to re-use the electrical tape that had been there, just to annoy my brother, but I decided against it. (It would have taken too much time.)

One of the fasteners I liberated yesterday fit well enough on the dash, so now the instrument cluster bezel is tightly secured. Perhaps it will help cure some of the buzzing in the area? We'll see.

All done, except I have been wondering if the screw-type hand fuel primer pump leaks air, which could help explain its very difficult to start behavior this Spring. (They can do this, leaking air, when the gaskets get old, especially when sitting. They can leak both fuel and/or air, depending.) You can get a new push-only type primer pump, but that's money and time. I have partially repaired these before, so I found my 90° 24mm wrench and removed the primer pump. Yes, the air-side gasket was badly decomposed. I got out my gasket punch set and punched a clean 5/8" hole in a sheet of Buna-N rubber scrap. (The 3/4" is a bit too large, it doesn't seal well enough against the plunger.) I cut a roughly 3/16" ring around it to make the washer shape, then rolled it over the body of the pump from the small end. Working it into place so that it tightened into the groove in the plunger, I was able to screw it down and it seemed to seal against mouth pressure on the open end. I installed it back on the truck, and then primed the system. Because the impossible-to-replace fuel seal inside the pump is old, it made quite a mess due to leaking fuel while pumping, but I was still able to pump fuel, and get it circulating through the system well enough to hear the check valve buzzing. I then tightened the plunger down against its brand-new air seal.

I put the block heater on while I wrote most of this up, then went out and started the truck. It started easily.

I took the truck for a quick spin up and down the hill, the badly rattling dash seems to be no more. (Amazing what putting things back together correctly can do.) However, I smelled hot friction material when I parked, and a quick survey showed that the front left brake was very hot. Sigh.

Monday, April 1, 2019

I tried to loosen the brake bleeder on the sticking side, and broke it off. (Who, exactly, is the April Fool now?) The project just got a lot bigger!

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

I jacked up the truck and removed the afflicted (right front) wheel. It wouldn't spin at all by hand. I cracked the line at the master cylinder, there was no spurt, so it's not the MC. I removed the pin bolt from the caliper, and hammered it up and around the pivot to free the hub/disc. The hub spins freely, it's definitely the brakes at fault. I removed the pads, which were still plenty sufficient, and checked that the caliper could move on its slides. It could. I then tried to push the piston back in with a big C clamp, and it wouldn't budge. Caliper time!

I removed the caliper and drove to town to get a replacement at NAPA. It came out to $41.15 total, with the AAA discount, but I had to drive to a different store to fetch it. They wanted the core kept at the first store, where I paid. Back home I put it back together, it was pretty easy. It got new copper sealing washers and a new hollow bolt, which came with the rebuilt caliper. I cracked open the bleeder, packed modeling clay around the threads to prevent air incurson, slipped an 8mm box-end wrench over it, then attached the Mity-Vac bleeder kit, and filled the brake reservoir. I then pumped the Mity-Vac until no more bubbles came out, broke the vacuum, and tightened the bleeder with the wrench. Quick, and easy.

I then put the truck the rest of the way together, and topped off the brake fluid. The lug nuts were all on the loose side, on all the wheels, so I snugged them all. I took it for a quick test drive and re-bedded the brakes. No problems.

Because it turned out that I had not brought all of the brake caliper with me to the store, I then took the opportunity for a longer test drive while returning the remainder of the core. The truck drove and braked fine, and did not pull to one side.

Now maybe it's ready to deliver.

Wednesday, April 3, 2019

I pulled off the instrument cluster bezel and tethered the solar panel to its mounting points, so it won't slide around on corners etc. (The test drives exposed the need for this.) Appropriate for a semi-permanent installation like this is expected to be. Then I buttoned everything back up.

Monday, April 8, 2019

I finally got a chance to drive this truck at night, and the 'upgraded' headlights suck worse than anything else I've ever driven. The 'low' beams are brighter than the highs, and are a sickly blue-green color. The high beams are feeble, and while I suppose they throw light a bit higher, they throw so little that the lows are actually better. The lows probably are blinding to oncoming traffic. The 'fog' lights are better for spotting low-flying aircraft than anything else. They're even too high to light the upcoming hill in the big dip. Awful.

The dash lighting is also wretched: the fuel gauge, and particularly the voltmeter, are blindingly bright at night. The fuel gauge is on the dash dimmer, but as its lamp is a white LED its brightness and color, and its voltage/illumination curve, don't match anything else in the dash. The voltmeter is just this nasty bright blue LED thing, which has no reaction to day/night. Ugh. The tachometer is not lit. And, of course, there aren't any turn signal indicators. The dash desperately could use a bit of a re-do. But, it's not something you'd usually drive at night, and it's leaving me tomorrow, so...

Also, the voltage regulation was erratic, according to the nasty voltmeter. Brush pack? Poor wiring connection? Crappy meter?

I stopped for fuel on the way home. Around 10 gallons, just about 20 MPG. Should perhaps have been better, but this is what I would expect from this engine under these conditions. I think it'll do better on the long trip.

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

Travel day! I filled the bed with the XL 100, and packed all my crap. I checked and the cigarette lighter works, so I'll have my phone tethered on the trip. I mounted the cell phone amplifier, and packed the truck. I had the battery on charge during all this, just in case it needed it. (It didn't.)

Last night the shrink tubing I'd installed on the hood pegs proved inadequate, the squeaking had gotten pretty continuous as the vibration had caused the hood to saw through it. I pulled the remains off and cut two .410 shotgun shell plastic casings free from their bases and twisted them down over the pegs with pliers. I used a heat gun and an awl to poke the holes for the cotter pins. This is pretty tough plastic, we'll see how it holds up on this trip. Because it's thicker plastic the diameter is larger, it's kind of hard to put the hood down all the way now.

I put the block heater on while I got cleaned up and dressed for the trip. Should make for a nice easy start. (It did.)

I spent the day bopping along at 75 MPH, the boost gauge showed 5–6 PSI at speed. Fairly noisy, no way I'm going to use the radio, that'd just add to the stress.

I locked the truck (after I filled up mid-trip) when I went in for a snack stop. When I tried to unlock the driver's door, it wouldn't. Nor would it open from the inside. I spent the remainder of the trip clambering in and out over the console. Sucked.

The truck just doesn't seem to have the power it should. While I fought a pretty fierce headwind most of the trip, it still seemed underpowered. I know it's got boost, I believe the gauge, but that doesn't mean that it's getting the additional fuel to go with it. The OM617 NA engine is some 88 HP, with turbo boost and additional fuel it's 120 HP. The experience felt a lot more like a NA experience than a turbo experience. Floored, uphill into a headwind, top speed could drop to as low as 50 MPH in fifth gear. (The ALDA may be malfunctioning, it's certainly been messed with as the anti-tamper cap has been removed.)

I parked it at the farm, after a long and fatiguing trip. That's the last time I'm going to be driving this truck.

Wednesday, April 10, 2019

Steve fixed the door. There was a broken clip and a missing spring. He found a new clip somewhere, and a spring, and after that it worked reliably again. Fucking ham-handed morons. It did this the day before I bought the truck, and the PO 'fixed' it. (No, he didn't, he just got it out of his driveway, but primed for failure later.) The door did work after that, but then I didn't ever lock it either. It's not that hard to fix things correctly, if you want to.

I showed Steve the engine compartment, to satisfy his curiosity. The turbo/ALDA plumbing looked plausible, the boost gauge is tapped right at the ALDA, so that potential cause of low power can probably be eliminated. Whether the ALDA itself is working is a different question. The fuel pre-filter looks pretty dark. I wonder if it's clogged a bit? Slight fuel starvation could also cause power problems. That would be an easy and cheap experiment.

Driving the replacement truck was a much nicer experience. That Ford is, and always was, indeed a nice truck. Still, the Mazcedes will be fun for short trips, and is a lot smaller. Which, if you don't need the payload room will be superior. Even if the turbo's not working correctly it won't matter much for the uses this truck will get.

Thursday, April 11, 2019

I cleaned out the truck, moved the cell phone amplifier to the Ford. it's ready for delivery.

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

Got the title transferred to Gene.

Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Gene picked up the truck and took it home.

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