1996 Dodge 3/4 ton V10
When my son wrecked the Dodge, the insurance company ended up totaling it,
primarily because the parts price was so high for a truck that old;
new parts were generally not available, except at "last melon" prices:
$12,000 and climbing. Well, this truck, which had almost
every necessary part on it, was only $2,124 in puny, but
ready-to-drive condition. That $10,000 off the price of repairs
Tuesday, May 1, 2018
No news on the truck, but for the last week or
so I had been eyeing a local 1996 V10, automatic, 207kmi, as a
potential parts donor. (It has the same body configuration, and
because of the 8.0ℓ [488 cid] V10, the same stronger frame. It
also has auxiliary suspension air bags, and a Tekonsha brake
controller.) With a 'weak transmission', I negotiated $1,450 for the
truck at UGM Motors as a fixer-upper. $1,784 out the door ready to
drive, followed immediately by $340 worth of used 10-ply tires, the
ones on the truck were bad, bad, bad. (Lumpy, unsafe at any speed.)
If it doesn't end up being used for parts, at least we have a truck for
hauling things around in for awhile.
Wednesday, May 2, 2018
I fabricated a loop handle from a section of dead V-belt to serve in
place of the broken and missing door pull cup on the driver's side of
the donor truck. It works fairly well, and is strong, and will keep
me from ripping the door panel off trying to close the door. A new
replacement is $25-ish, and not worth considering on a parts truck,
unless sourced at a junkyard.
Saturday, May 5, 2018
The messed-up passenger door latch was causing real problems as
regards the donor truck's temporary duty with us, so I took the door
apart and used two big hammers to flatten out the bends where the
metal had cracked and deformed at the latch. I then used the
wire-feed welder to close the cracks. I used two hammers to flatten
out the welds and the general area, and ground some of the excess off.
The latch went back together easily. The missing attachment screw
will need to be replaced. Once reassembled the door worked well, as
did the locks. (But not the electric locks, which strain but can't
manage to move things.)
I looked closer, and the driver's door has the same cracking problem,
though a fat washer added to one of the screws is preventing the
bending. It may not need a better repair, the donor truck is not
expected to live very much longer.
Monday, May 7, 2018
I went to Pull-N-Save, and wandered the Dodge pen until I found a
vehicle that used the same door latch screws. I grabbed two, one for
the missing screw and another just in case the weird one on the
driver's side should need replacement. There were none of these
trucks in the yard, so no specific items like a door pull cup for me.
The fuel pump wouldn't start on the donor truck, stranding me briefly.
Banging on the tank, a trick I've heard about, seemed to get it going
again. Scary. (Not the first time it would not start, but I finally
was able to chase it to the fuel pump. Could be the relay, but is
probably the pump.) The real problem with this truck, though, is the
box-of-rocks sound that you get at RPM as you float between
acceleration and decelaration; I think the engine is on its last legs,
which is not a problem except it means that I probably cannot use this
truck to go fetch the wreck home.
Wednesday, May 9, 2018
I brought the donor truck to a shop we have a relationship with, and
borrowed an ear. He confirmed that it was probably rod noise, and
when presented with my plan of using it for one more cross-State trip
to pick up the truck carcass, suggested that I dump some Lucas in it
and try to keep it out of rattle range as much as possible. He
thought that this would not be an overly risky proposition, so long as
I did not expect a great deal more life out of the engine.
When leaving there, the truck would not crank. As I had recently
swapped the starter and fuel pump relays, this was a good
thing! (The problem followed the relay, which means that the problem
is the relay.) I swapped relays around again, and got the
truck running. My next stop was FLAPS, where $32 bought me a
replacement relay and a jug of Lucas oil treatment. Having a definite
thing to blame means that it is unlikely to need a hard-to-replace
fuel pump before the operation.
Wednesday, May 16, 2018
The little battery clock I'd stuck in the dash cubby of the other
truck died some time ago, I stopped by the thrift shop and got another
clock. $1, it seems to work. I taped it to the same wooden block I'd
used on the last one, to try to hold it in place, put in a battery,
and parked it in this truck's cubby. It's a clock you can read easily
while napping, without having to turn something electronic on.
Friday, May 18, 2018
I used the truck to pick up the out-for-repair lawn mower, and the transmission
chose today, on the pickup run, to work perfectly! All four gears,
and a locked torque converter at higher speeds. (I could feel/hear
all four transitions.) About 1,500 RPM at
55 MPH, staying well away from the bearing noise
zone. It also lit the low-fuel light on the way, and I filled up at
334 miles, the truck turned in 10.8 MPG. Wa-hoo!
Double digits! (I wasn't expecting it to be even that good.)
I am concerned that the transmission reverted to limp-home behavior
after the fill-up. I think that in order for a haul-the-carcass-home
trip to be practical I need to be sure of keeping the engine out of
the rattle zone most of the way, and for that I really need fourth
gear and the TC lockup.
Saturday, May 19, 2018
I cleaned and treated (De-Ox-It) the big relay contacts in the power
distribution module, opened and cleaned/treated the contacts in the
intermittent relay I'd replaced and put it in the glove box as a
spare, and opened/cleaned/treated the transmission control relay. I
opened and treated the big three connectors by the brake booster
(C125/C126/C127) and looked for where the loose orange wire that is
right there should go. Looks like maybe it's supposed to be loose,
which seems odd. The only orange wire in the loom I could identify
(in my 1997 manual) is the +5V line for the transmission solenoids.
I didn't measure anything on it, though.
I cut a stick to wedge under the seat cushion to keep it from sagging.
Now it's a bit high-feeling, but probably less annoying. We'll see,
it's not like a stick is hard to remove or anything.
I moved the truck closer to the air compressor, and went under the
truck again. I pulled the transmission connector and flushed it out
with brake cleaner, again, and puddled some into the upwards-facing
socket. I used compressed air to blow it out, and definitely felt
some dirt moving around. Not sure whether it was in the connector, or
just sitting on top of the transmission flange where the connector
lives. I used De-Ox-It on the connector and plugged it back in. I
think the connector seated deeper than before, with a more positive
'snick'. I drove the truck downtown and back, to the evening's parade
activity, and the transmission operated properly. Looks good, but
I'm going to need to put a few more miles on it before I call it
fixed. You can definitely feel all four shifts now, going into fourth
gear and then having the torque converter lockup engage at freeway
speeds. Engine turns now at about 1,500 RPM at
55 MPH, which is very nice. Plenty of torque,
it's happy loafing along like that.
The replacement battery clock sucks, its hands stick at around 7, so
it's always showing the wrong time. Better luck next time!
Sunday, May 20, 2018
I drove the truck today, and the transmission behaved perfectly at all
times. I think we can say that it is fixed! The seat feels a little
weird, it could probably use some more work. Will it get it?
Monday, May 21, 2018
The tailgate had an incorrect bolt for one of the cable stops, so that
it did not pivot correctly, causing it to bind up when closing.
(Regular bolt, not a shoulder bolt, so it was pinched tight into place
rather than pivoting as the gate closes.) I stopped by the U-Pull and
nabbed the correct bolt off of a Dakota. There!
Tuesday, May 22, 2018
They charged a little too much for the license and registration, and
refunded me $22.75 today. (Reflected in the numbers above.) I picked
up the license plates too. The paper tag is good until June 15,
I wonder if I'll actually have to put the plates on?
Wednesday, May 23, 2018
Got the final offer on the wrecked truck today.
They are throwing in transporting the wreck from Seattle to Spokane,
which is more than 300 miles. Such a deal. I have made arrangements
to drop the wreck directly at the shop, I won't need to be involved at
The V10's days are numbered. Small ones.
Friday, May 25, 2018
I talked to Bryan Long at Spokane Frame & Auto, (509) 868-2605,
and he said that while he needed more parts laying around like a hole
in the head, he'd take $750 off the price of the job if he got to keep
the remains of the donor. That's half what I paid for the entire
truck, and well over what I could get at the junkyard. Sold! (I'm
sure that careful parting out of the remains could yield more than
this, but I am personally not interested in stretching out this
process any longer, and certainly don't need yet another carcass
laying around here, or another project.) The bed is not included in
this deal as the neighbor wants it. I might charge him
$1, to make it all legal. (Is that still a thing?)
Tueesday, May 29, 2018
The low-fuel light came on again, and I just couldn't stand not
knowing the fuel mileage improvement due to the repaired transmission,
even though the donor operation is imminent. I filled up, the third
and probably last tank, at 381 miles, the truck turned in a whopping
12.3 MPG. Wa-hoo, a 14% improvement!
Gaining this knowledge was a $100 indulgence, unless I can drive it
down to near empty again before it goes in. If I can't, I see some
siphoning in my future, no way I'm giving away $100 in fuel with the
I've got to say I've enjoyed my tenure with this truck, especially
since I fixed the transmission. I could easily see owning another
one, under the right circumstances. (Translation: a price as right as
this one, and a need for a big truck like this.) I like
large-displacement low-revving engines, they're torquey and easy to
drive. You just have to find a way to stomach the large fuel bills!
Saturday, June 2, 2018
Some friends were taking down several dead trees in their back yard
and gave us the wood, all we had to do was haul it. Two full loads.
The truck barely noticed the weight. I did have a fair amount of
trouble shifting in and out of 4wd, but that's due to my unfamiliarity
with this process on an automatic transmission vehicle.
There was some grunching noise up front when in 4wd, that's a bit
disturbing since that's part of what's moving to the other truck.
Thursday, June 7, 2018
The title finally came in the mail. Unless I miss my guess, barely
Friday, June 8, 2018
This truck has been my daily driver all week, trying to run the fuel
out. Unless something comes up where we need this truck, I
think I just drove it for the penultimate time. It's down to 1/8 tank
indicated, and the light is coming on. 330 miles, and at $100 a pop I
don't want to feed it again. (Probably only about 5 gallons of fuel
left, based on the prior two fill-ups. That's 50-odd miles, or a
couple of trips to town and back before it sucks air.) At this point
I only expect the one more trip: to the gallows. I enjoyed driving
this truck far more than I ever expected to, perhaps because it is
actually fairly clean inside and it has the same nap-worthy back seat
as the other truck, in addition to its torquey low-revving-ness.
Time to fire up the Mazcedes, I guess. Not
at all nap-worthy, near as I can tell at this point, and pretty
unrefined in comparison. But I don't expect it to be a daily driver,
either. It is planned for a different role in my life.
Wednesday, June 13, 2018
Reprieve? The dead truck finally showed up
yesterday. The shop doesn't think a donor frame is necessary at all,
and if this is true this truck will not be parted out. Flip it,
instead? Keep it as the non-RV truck, circumventing 90% of the scary
and tedious camper on/off dance? Most of our non-camper uses of a
truck are infrequent, and local, so the terrible gas mileage of the
V10 really wouldn't be a big issue. My guess is that we'd
probably only put a few hundred miles a year on it. Certainly not
worth buying a truck for, but we've already got this one, and it
wasn't very expensive.
Tuesday, June 26, 2018
The dead truck is repaired, and I'm going to go
pick it up tomorrow, leaving this one in its place for now. He's
going to estimate a cheap-ass in-frame bearing job. For now I brought it
up top, ready to drive tomorrow. (After I put the license plates on it.)
Since we might be keeping this, I removed the lump-inducing stick from
the seat frame, and substituted a 2" piece of closed-cell packing
foam. It wedged into place pretty securely, we'll see how it feels
with a bit of seat time. The foam certainly has more 'give' to it
than a stick does!
Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Finally installed the license plates. (The paper tag expired on the
15th.) I had the frame shop guy look at it, and he thinks
he might be able to do an in-frame bearing swap, but not immediately.
Will call July 12-ish to firm up an appointment. Since I had to leave
the repaired truck at the tire shop I drove this one back home.
I did some checking, and a proper seat repair, essentially
undistinguishable from new, will be in the $400 range for the parts.
The foam repair is better than the stick, but the seat is
just so ugly. The current list of planned repairs, if we
decide to go that way, is:
I'll probably have to eventually do something about:
- Squeaking/leaking 4wd
- Seat cushion
- Door pull
- Cupholder/power outlet
- Re-film ripply passenger window
- Bumper pad (used one off wrecked truck)
- Non-dimming rear-view mirror
- Partially melted left headlight.
- Peeling paint
- Rusting gouge on LR wheelwell.
Saturday, June 30, 2018
We wanted to go kayaking. Good thing we have a spare truck!
Sunday, July 1, 2018
We needed to haul a load of chairs and stands to our outdoor band
concert today. Good thing we have a spare truck!
Tuesday, July 3, 2018
I stopped by NAPA today and spent $16.50 on a 2-oz can of PAG 100 oil
and a 12-oz can of R134a. When I had a moment later I dug out the AC
gear, and fired it all up. (Vacuumed out the gauge set before
starting, bleeding refrigerant into it, etc.) When I removed the
high-side cap there was a bit of hissing, so I think the fitting leaks
there. The compressor was short-cycling, and sounded kind of noisy,
so I started with the oil can. I then fed it the can of refrigerant,
and partway through eating that it started cycling longer and longer.
With the entire can in the system there was no more short cycling, the
compressor sounded much quieter, and vent temperatures were 48°F
at idle. (Ambient was only 70°F, so not much of a challenge.)
If it's warm tomorrow at the parade, it'll be nice to have the AC
The malfunctioning left brake light on the trailer turned out to be
a bent contact in the socket on the truck. I used a pick to spread
out the contact a bit more, which seemed to cure the problem.
One of the safety chain attachement points on the hitch had been bent,
looked like maybe somebody backed into something quite some time ago
(rust). I used a big crescent wrench to bend it back into
place, and all the paint came off the rust. I brushed it off and
dabbed some black paint on. With this straightened it's easier to
get the trailer on.
Wednesday, July 4, 2018
The truck handled towing the trailer to and from the parade well. I
was a bit surprised how much the transmission reacted to the nominal
weight of the empty trailer, it was a lot more shifty. It was a
challenge, at times, to keep the RPM's out of the
rattle zone. But do-able. It was an overall cool day, but we did use
the AC some on the way home. It was nice to have it, and to know that
it is there if we need it.
Thursday, August 2, 2018
Daniel went to drive this truck, and it would fire but not stay
running. (He drove something else.) Later in the day I got it started,
and it would run so long as you kept some gas on. It refused to idle,
and would die on its own. After a bit of pedal feathering it seemed to
return to normality, and would idle. Odd.
... I am told that this is not uncommon, and that "brushing its
teeth", using spray carb cleaner and a toothbrush on the idle air
motor in the air intake, will likely cure it. Unlike the spring-loaded
Mercedes system that tends to stick at high-idle, this one can stick
when shut, resulting in a no-run condition instead of a stable idle.
Thursday, August 16, 2018
Yesterday's parts procurement for the diesel truck yielded a door pull
cup, but it turned out it was for the wrong side. When I went back
today to swap it, we couldn't find a driver's-side cup, which isn't
really that surprising. (They're the ones that are going to break,
after all.) I swapped the wrong one straight across for a power
distribution center cover, to keep dirt out of the underhood fuses and
relays. (Roughly $7.50 for that.)
Saturday, November 10, 2018
We used the truck to haul more free firewood. The 4wd worked nicely,
no bad noises anymore.
It turns out that the left headlight problem was caused by some bozo
trying to install a 9007 lamp in a 9004 socket. It doesn't go in
right, and the bulb ended up melting the housing. The used
replacement housing I procured ($24) was a pain to install, mostly
because the bumper is a little bit out of place. Also installed,
earlier, was a door pull cup, about $29, a Wheelskins leather steering
wheel wrap, about $54, and a replacement cup holder mechanism, which
was about $65. At the same time I fixed the power outlet, which had
been re-installed incorrectly. All that's really left to do on the
presentation front is the driver's seat. And something about the
paint so that it doesn't rust.
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